Tag: DIY

An unexpected return to garment sewing

October 23, 2025

Although I’ve been quilting for several years, I learned to sew by making garments. A serger, French curve ruler and stash of specialty garment sewing notions are evidence of my past. My friend, Ruby, has inspired me to tiptoe back into garment making. We’ve chosen a simple top pattern and plan a shopping excursion to Gail K Fabrics soon.

Meanwhile, I’ve taught sewing lessons for ‘tweens and teens over many years. Our foray into garment sewing is usually limited to items such as pajama pants, elastic waist skirts and adding bling to RTW items. Back in 2017, I mentored a high school student through her senior project portfolio and later with designing/making her own prom dress. Almost a decade later, I’m mentoring another senior with the three sewn garments required as part of her portfolio application to the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.

With Joann now closed, sewists no longer have the ability to go flip through all the pattern books looking for inspiration. To select her portfolio projects, my mentee perused my limited selection of printed garment patterns and garment sewing books, print issues of Burda Style, websites of indie pattern designers and any newer garment sewing books we could find at the public libraries around us. She also spent time on social media gathering project ideas and portfolio prep advice.

Today, she took home her first completed garment for the portfolio – a ponte knit skirt. The skirt pattern – modified to add a front slit detail – came from the book Stretch by Tilly and the Buttons, which title is part of my personal sewing book collection. I have to say I’m impressed with the pattern, instructions and overall finished result. So much nicer than my experiences with the Big 4 pattern companies.

Our local library had a copy of Sustainable Style, sponsored by the Great British Sewing Bee. Published in 2020, the book is still available for sale in print and electronic formats, in case your library doesn’t offer it. In the book, my mentee found blouse and trouser patterns she wanted to make for her portfolio. The patterns that go along with the book can be found here. Technically, the patterns are free, but you have to print and tape the pages together or send the A0 pattern images out to a specialty printer who can print them at the correct size. My local printshop said it could print blueprint size pages; however, staff could not scale the image to print at the correct size, despite repeated attempts to do so.

Solution? I sent the master pattern image files to PDFPlotting in North Carolina. Keith returned the printed pattern sheets within two days. The patterns were printed correctly to scale, with crisp images and delivered wrinkle free. Two complete patterns for less than $25.00. Very reasonable in terms of cost and time saved not having to print and tape 60+ letter size sheets together!

Will I continue to quilt? Of course! Mentoring my student with her portfolio prep has merely whetted my appetite to try new things – a top and skirt, knit pjs, rope bowls, jelly roll rugs and sashiko stitching to name a few.

Here’s to learning new things and happy stitching!

DIY Design Boards

September 8, 2025

Design boards are essentially a hand-held version of a design wall. I first learned about design boards at a retreat with Lori Holt back in 2019. We actually made our own design boards as one of the retreat projects. For quilters, they are great for holding bits and pieces of blocks or smaller projects. Ready-made design boards in a variety of sizes are available through Riley Blake Designs. Retail prices range from around $15 to $30 per design board.

DIY Design Boards holding M50 Aloha Mystery Project Components

You can DIY multiple designs boards for the cost of a single ready-made one. Basic supplies needed: a piece of foam core board, scrap batting and a couple of jelly roll strips. You will need either a glue gun or Heat & Bond Ultra (in the red package) with a mini iron to affix the border trim.

I prefer to make my design boards using self-adhesive foam core board (I find it at Hobby Lobby), felt and the Heat & Bond Ultra (on the roll) method. Note: a glue gun will still come in handy to hold the mitered corners in place. If I can’t find self-adhesive foam core board, I’ll use spray baste to hold the batting/felt in place.

Foam core board can be found in the school supply section at Dollar Tree, Wal-Mart, Office Depot, Hobby Lobby and Michael’s. It usually comes in a 20″ x 30″ sheet and quality can vary, so compare before you buy. I cut mine to the desired size using a 60mm rotary cutter. Personally, I like an 18″ to 20″ square board for larger quilt blocks and a 10″ to 12″ square board for smaller quilt blocks. And yes, I have been known to Frankenbatt leftover pieces of foam core board to make one more design board.

Design board made from leftover foam core board pieces (taped together with painter’s tape).

Design Board Tutorial using glue gun
Design Board Tutorial using Heat & Bond Ultra

Ideas to help manage tight workspaces at quilt retreats and classes

August 7, 2025

Over the past year, I’ve noticed my personal sewing space at quilt retreats and classes shrinking. Shared space seems to be the new normal rather than having a table all to yourself. Before packing, contact the event organizer and ask about the amount of sewing space allotted per participant. Do you get a 6′-8′ table all to yourself or do you have to share with another person? If shared, are you side-by-side or offset on opposite sides of the table? (Psst, offset & opposite gives me more room to work).

My set-up in about 36″ of workspace at a quilt retreat.
At a retreat with an entire table to myself – a wonderful experience!

Ways to deal with tight sewing spaces:

(1) Bring a smaller sewing machine. Leave the 30″ wide Baby Lock Allegro at home. Most sewing machines with up to an 8″ throat space should work in a 3-4 foot workspace. If you plan to take a sewing machine on an airplane, make sure it fits in a case that can go under the seat in front of you. While you may not experience issues getting overhead bin space, planning ahead might avoid the dreaded “gate check” on full flights (especially if you are in a later boarding group). Airlines are typically not responsible for any damage that may occur in a gate checked situation. Alternatives: Ask about machine rental. Have your machine professionally packed to ride in the cargo hold or ship it ahead of time.

Travelpro Maxlite 5 underseat rolling tote with my sewing machine ready to fly to a retreat.

My travel machine of choice is an Elnita EC30. In the past, I took a 3/4 size Elna STAR edition (similar to the Janome Jem 720). It’s a great choice for retreats & classes; however – for me – the Elnita EC30 offers more features, prettier stitches, sews faster and also fits in the same Travelpro rolling case. There are several other machines that fit this smaller size footprint (machine width less than 15.25″) from the vintage Singer Featherweight to the mechanical Janome Signature Charm at Wal-Mart to the new computerized Bernina 325/335. Pick what works best for your needs, preferences and budget.

(2) Cull your presser feet. Do you really want to schlep ALL your presser feet to a retreat or class – especially if you are flying? Not me.

Based on my experience, the following presser feet should have you covered in most scenarios*:

Presser FootDescription
All purpose/zigzag footVersatile and useful for various stitches.
1/4″ foot with guideIdeal for accurate seam allowances.
Open toe footGreat for visibility while sewing.
Zipper footSpecifically designed for inserting zippers.
Walking foot with guidesHelps feed multiple layers evenly.

*Always check your project directions/retreat instructions to make sure you pack any specialty presser feet required. Occasionally, you need an edgestitch foot, darning/FMQ foot or buttonhole foot.

(3) Bring a smaller extension table. Think 12″ x 16″ or less. I have a Sew Steady Junior Size table (11″ x 15″) that I take to retreats and sew days.

(4) Add a stick on LED light strip strategically placed round the needle area to illuminate a dim sewing area. This can make a task lamp optional, unless you plan to sew at night.

(5) Pack a small power strip or extension cord with at least 4 outlets and USB connections. This helps corral all the power cords for your sewing machine, LED light strip, travel iron and task lap, while still charging your phone.

(6) Create a sewing machine first aid kit: Two packs of extra needles, bobbins, spool caps, hump jumper, small oil pen, lint brush, screwdrivers, tweezers or hemostat. Include spools of off-white, beige or light gray thread. You could even keep your presser feet in here.

(7) Keep a digital copy of your sewing machine manual on your phone or tablet. This cuts down on paper clutter and is one less thing you have to keep track off.

(8) Precut your projects, label everything and place them in small baggies or lay them out on design boards.

(9) Bring a folding TV tray to use as a cutting/pressing station. This really extends your work area, especially when you are assigned half of a 6 foot table.

(10) Streamline the sewing notions you bring to the retreat. In a 36″ space, a small pair of scissors, seam ripper, pins/pincushion and a purple thang will be all you have room to keep to the right of your machine. Pack all other notions in a tote bag that you can easily retrieve them and return as needed.

My personal mantra for packing for sew days, classes and retreats is “Less is More.” I keep a basic set of sewing supplies/rulers/mats for travel and add/subtract to this based on the event. I’ll either take my Elnita EC30 or my Singer Featherweight. If driving, I’ll add a task lamp and folding TV tray. I always make sure to pack my memory foam seat cushion – even when flying.

Happy sewing away from home.