Last week, I took an English Paper Piecing workshop with Amanda Bauer. This all-day class was sponsored by my quilt guild (meaning an affordable $55.00 class fee + a $15 kit fee). Prior to this class, I’d never taken a formal class on EPP and my experience has been limited to hexagon shapes only. Yep, I can definitely make a hexie flower with no problem!

I’ve definitely upped my EPP game by taking this class. I fine-tuned my glue-basting process, learned how to “marry” the needle and thread, plus got a little bit better at whipstitching my pieces together. I normally use a flatback stitch for EPP, but her method for the whipstitch is faster and results in less hand fatigue.

Like any instructor, she has her favorite products to use for EPP and shared her reasons as to why. Honestly, they weren’t that much different from the other instructor product offerings I found online. Students were provided kits and access to recommended tools to try during the class. I may very well switch to using her style of whipstitch in the future. However, I’ll keep using my 80 wt Wonderfil polyester thread in a coordinating color to lessen stitch visibility. That’s my personal preference.

Basic tool recommendations for EPP:

Needles: Milliners/Straw sizes 9, 10 or 11. (Bohin, John James, Sue Daley) OR Sharp sizes 7 – 9
Thread: Polyester 50 wt, 60 wt or 80 wt in matching color, if possible.
Paper shapes: Purchased shapes offer consistency. Paper Pieces is a good source of EPP paper templates.
Glue pen: Sew Line glue pen and refills
Scissors: Serrated edge (Karen K. Buckley or Kai Scissors)
Rotary cutter: Olfa 28mm
Automatic needle threader: Bohin or Clover
Recommended: Small rotating cutting mat, Magic Seam ruler for fussy cutting, Sew Tites and Wonder Clips.
Optional: Needle keeper, thimble and thread conditioner

Videos I think you might find helpful:
Fat Quarter Shop Tula Pink EPP series
Wonder Window technique for fussy cutting

EPP is very portable. Word to the wise: When traveling by plane, Amanda recommends that you cut (and glue baste if possible) all shapes ahead of time, take a small pair of snips you don’t mind losing and a small usb light. Definitely leave the rotary cutter and mat at home or pack it in your checked luggage.

A new year is here. Before getting started on your winter sewing projects, give your sewing machine a little attention. It’ll make your stitching time during the cold winter months a lot more pleasant.

Step 1:
Give your machine a mini-facial: clean out the dust bunnies under the needle plate, add oil where needed, install a new needle and give it a good wipe down.

Step 2:
Locate your sewing machine manual. If you can’t find it, check the support section on the manufacturer’s website or check Pocono Sew & Vac’s website to see if there’s a link to a free download for your machine. Print a copy and place it in a 3 prong plastic folder to keep with your machine. Also save the downloaded file somewhere in the cloud, so you can have access to it in case you forget/lose your printed copy.

Step 3:
Record your sewing machine’s basic stats on a sticky note and keep it with your machine manual:
Model and serial number
Modern machines? on a sticker near the power switch or on the back of the machine.
Vintage machines? may be stamped underneath or on a metal plate on the machine bed.
Shank: low, high or slant?
Max stitch width: 5 mm, 7 mm, or 9 mm?
Bobbin size and type: Class 15, Class 66, specialty brand (Elna, Viking, Pfaff, Bernina)? Metal or plastic?
Snap on feet: center needle or slightly offset left? (Janome made top loading machines use snap on feet where the connecting bar is offset to the left. This means some of the feet in the big accessory packs sold on Amazon may not work.)

Step 4:
Go through all of your sewing machine feet and bobbins. Make sure only the ones that work with that particular sewing machine are in the accessory box. Refer to your manual and info recorded in Step 3. Missing any feet? Time to visit your local sewing machine shop or order online.

Step 5:
Protect your sewing machine. Make or buy a cover to keep the dust out. Plug it into a surge protected power strip. If you take your machine to classes, sew days and retreats, buy a case/padded bag to safeguard your machine during transport. Sure, the designer trolley bags are pretty, but there are plenty of other budget-friendly options out there as well.

A common question: Do I need to take my machine in for service every year?
The answer is YES, if one of the following applies:
1. Your machine is under a warranty or has a service contract.
2. You spent megabucks on your sewing machine within the past 5 years.

Otherwise, the answer is NO. Every other year is generally fine as long as your machine is operating normally.

Keep in mind that the cost of a routine service is now $150.00 per machine. Depending on your particular model and age of machine, it might be worth buying a new machine instead of taking it in for service & repair. Only you can make that decision. Me? If it’s one from the big box store, I’d probably replace it. If has sentimental value and I plan to hang onto it, I’d definitely get it serviced at least once.

Psst: If you like to DIY, it’s very easy to learn how to service (and make simple repairs) vintage sewing machines and many mechanical machines.