Fall vibes

Cool, crisp fall days are upon us. It’s my absolute favorite time of year! This afternoon, I spent time piecing blocks on Fiona, my white Singer Featherweight. I had the windows open and smooth jazz on the playlist. It was glorious!

Fiona is a special machine. Like many FW enthusiasts, I wanted a machine that was manufactured the year I was born. I was fortunate to find a celery/white FW in extremely good cosmetic condition. Mechanically, she had more than a few quirks. Learning to address those issues taught me a lot! Now, she sews as beautifully as she looks.

On Friday, I was tasked with servicing a 1938 Featherweight that one of my Friday Sew Squad had purchased from a casual visitor to the library’s quilting group. It was untested, but the seller assured my friend that it had worked prior to being packed away for at least 10 years. Yep, she was right about it being packed away for at least a decade. The machine had been sitting in the case so long that the lug belt disintegrated. The tiny, rubbery bits literally superglued themselves to the motor pulley. I had to soak the hardened mass in sewing machine oil and remove it bit by bit. The rest of the machine was in decent shape – oil, lube and a good wipe down were the main things she needed.

I suspect tension issues are what caused the machine to be packed away. This old girl may have a 1938 chassis, but she also sported a number of parts from newer machines – chiefly, the motor, bobbin winder and tension assembly. Someone had installed the parts to the upper tension assembly in the wrong order. I fixed that. Still had issues with the tension. Tried a different bobbin case. Problem solved.

My next task will be to disassemble and clean the original bobbin case. I’ve never done this before, but something seemed off on the bobbin case latch. I ordered a new tension screw and bobbin case spring just in case. Fun bit of trivia: a business card in the FW accessory box was from a quilt shop in south Georgia that has long since closed. Put it this way – the web address listed on the business card was a page hosted on Compuserve. It’s been a while.

Tinkering on Featherweights and teaching machine maintenance classes make me happy. My “shade tree” sewing machine mechanic activities now account for about 20% of my business revenue. I think that’s kind of cool.

Upcoming class I’m teaching at the SQTM

Sewing Machine Maintenance – Saturday, April 20th 1:30-3:00 p.m. Cost: $35 + $5 supply fee
Let’s do a little spring cleaning on our sewing machines! Just like your car, your sewing machine requires regular maintenance to keep it performing in top shape. Do you know what type of maintenance to do and how often to perform it? We’ll start with our machine manuals and work from there. We’ll also share resources for learning more about your vintage and modern machines, plus provide a list of area sewing machine repair shops.

I’m really excited about the sewing machine maintenance class. A basic machine service runs $125.00 – $140.00 in my area – more if you have a machine with an automatic thread cutter or an embroidery module. Most sewing machine companies recommend an annual service. If you have the super high end TOL computerized machine that costs as much as a new car, then yes, you should absolutely plan to take it in to the shop for service on an annual basis, in addition to the routine maintenance you perform yourself.

For other machines – if you keep it cleaned and oiled, use quality needles & thread, protect it with a dust cover and your machine is running fine, there’s really no need to take it into the shop for an “annual” service. (BTW, I service and maintain my vintage machines myself.) Save your money! Furthermore, you CAN learn how to replace the bits that tend to break – spool pins, needle threaders and thread cutters. Parts are available to DIY. This is how I keep my classroom machines running. I know I can always take it to the repair shop if it’s something I can’t fix. Today, I picked up the Baby Lock Jubilant from the repair shop because I couldn’t figure out how to replace the blasted needle threader. This is the first time it’s ever been in for service and I’ve had it four years. Cost: $160.00. Believe me, I’ll be learning how to work on Brother/Baby Lock machines as well as I do my Janome machines! Don’t want to DIY simple repairs? That’s fine. Even with basic maintenance, you can probably stretch the service interval to once every 2-3 years assuming your machine is running fine. You’ll still save $$.

When does it make sense to replace rather than repair? (1) Your sewing machine is the $99 special from the big box store and you can’t fix it yourself. To me, it makes more sense to replace it rather than repair it (unless the machine holds some sort of sentimental value for you). (2) You have a computerized machine that’s out of warranty and the cost of a new motherboard is half the cost of a used, similar machine. Put it this way, should my 8900 need a new motherboard, I’ll be getting a new machine.

Janome machine disassembled to replace broken plastic spool pins with metal ones.

Replacing Retractable Sewing Machine Spool Pins

k2-_910e8f8a-b6c5-4f2c-8f0b-ef272a42ff83-v1-069f2200c2aed662b922dc87ae647be429baedac-optim-450x450
Janome JW5622 from Wal-Mart

My sewing club kids worked the sewing machines over this past school year!

One of the machines, a JW 5622 from Wal-Mart, wound up with broken and bent spool spins. (Well, they are made of plastic, so what else do you expect when a dozen 9 & 10 year olds use the machines over the course of 28 weeks?)  I decided to replace the the plastic pins with metal ones.

Normally, this would mean taking the machine to the repair shop and shelling out $90 for a basic service and less than 2 minutes of time to swap out the spool pins. Not this time. Mechanical machines I can do. I rehabbed a Singer 99K and maintain my Featherweight. Both run perfectly. Parts were available online, so I decided to DIY.

But first, I needed 2 things:  a service manual* and 2 metal retractable spool pins. (* This one was free from Janome and is a basic service manual for several variations of this model available through online retailers and big box stores. Service-Manual.net is a reliable resource for purchased sewing machine service manuals. Most are about $10 and include the parts list.)

Surprisingly, there was no mention in the service manual on how to replace the spool pins. That turned out to be the easy part. Getting the cover off the machine was another matter entirely. The service manual was a huge help with dismantling and reassembling the machine.

20160609_220315
Machine apart with new metal spool pins installed.

Here’s the machine taken apart with the spool pins replaced. (See the red felt?) Loosen the tiny screw between the spool pins just enough to release the tension on the wire, slide in the new spool pins in place and tighten so that the spool pin catches the wire on the indention near the bottom of the spool pin.  FYI – the end with 3 lines is the top of the spool pin. Test the spool pin (move it up & down just like you would normally) and adjust the tension on the wire as necessary. That’s it. Now, reassemble the the machine!

Helpful hints:

  • Enlarge the machine diagram from the service manual on the copier and tape the screws to the page as you remove them.
  • Use a magnetic tip screwdriver.
  • Have a pair of tweezers handy to hold screws in tight places.
  • If the machine disassembly diagram instructs you to loosen the set screw, that’s what they mean!  Do not remove the screw completely. There is a reason for this!
  • On this model, there is electrical wiring that needs to be tucked BEHIND the spool pins and the tab to the left of the spool pins (the white box thingie) before you re-attach the rear cover.

This repair cost me $12.00 for parts and took about an hour to complete. Most of the time was spent figuring out how to disassemble/reassemble the sewing machine.  The sewing machine cost $149.00 when I purchased it and it was worth it to me to attempt the repair myself. Worst case scenario – I would take the machine to the repair shop in pieces and pay the money to have them fix my screw-up.  By DIY, I saved $75 plus gas and the 90 minute round trip to the sewing machine repair shop.