Tag: handmade

Be your own designer – start simple

August 2, 2025
Round potholder – first attempt at using Adobe Illustrator to create pattern templates. Note to self – need to raise and soften curve of pocket piece.

My kitchen is in dire need of new potholders. Thanks to home and car insurance renewals this past month, I’m going to have DIY if I want new ones. I already have all the materials, including the heat resistant batting, in my sewing room. For inspiration, I headed to Pinterest. I kept seeing a really cute round potholder with a pocket and hanging loop. All of pins directed me to various blogposts, which in turn redirected me to purchase a pattern for $10.95. No thanks. I’ll try drafting my own. While I used Adobe Illustrator to create my 8″ circle and pocket piece, you do not need a computer to draft your own pattern templates.

There’s an old-school, analog method for drafting your own patterns. It involves pen, paper, a ruler and usually something round. A round potholder is 8″ in diameter. Head to your kitchen: a luncheon plate is usually 8″ in diameter. Or try the lid to a large pot, a mid-size skillet or a 2-2.5 quart round casserole dish. Your lid can be a little under/over 8″.

You’ll need two circles – one circle per page. I traced around a luncheon plate to make my circles.

Cut out one of the circles. Leave the other circle intact (as a full-sheet of paper). Fold each circle in half lengthwise and make a crease along the fold.

On the full-sheet circle, place a ruler along the crease and make a mark approximately 4.5″ from the bottom. Place the cut circle on top of the full-sheet circle. Align both circles along the crease. Slide the cut circle up until the bottom of that circle meets the mark you made at the 4.5″ point on the other circle. Confirm that your creases are still aligned all the way to the top (fold down the top circle a bit to check). Trace the bottom of the circle to form the top arc of the moon shaped piece that will be the pocket template for your round potholder.

Cut out your moon shaped piece. You should now have two pattern templates.

What else do you need per potholder?

  • (4) 9-1/2″ squares of coordinating fabrics
  • (2) 9-1/2″ squares of Insul-Bright or Insul-Fleece
  • (2) 9-1/2″ squares of cotton batting
  • (1) 2-1/2 x 5-1/2″ strip for hanging loop (optional)
  • Approximately 45″ of 2-1/2″ bias binding

Basic construction notes:
a) Make 2 quilt sandwiches – one for the main body and one for the pocket. Include a piece of Insul-Bright/Insul-Fleece and a piece of cotton batting in each sandwich. Quilt as desired – a 1″ grid is commonly used in kitchen textiles.
b) Cut out the body and pocket pieces using the templates you drafted.
c) Add binding to curve of pocket piece using your preferred method.
d) Place pocket piece on top of body, align and baste in place.
e) Make hanging loop, fold in half and baste in place at center top on front or back of potholder.
f) Attach bias binding back to front and sew down – this video will be VERY helpful.
g) Flip up the hanging loop and stitch in place to secure (optional).

Here’s a helpful tutorial for an oval shaped potholder, but it’s essentially the same as for a round potholder with a pocket.

Helpful hints:
– Use a longer stitch length (3.5 mm) when quilting and topstitching.
– A left bi-level foot (or quilt binding foot) will help keep topstitching uniform when applying binding back to front.
– If the binding has a difficult time turning to the front and providing enough coverage, try grading the seam allowance along where the pocket and body are sewn together.

Sewing machine tariffs – revisited

July 26, 2025

I finally caught up on all the email that arrived while I was in Oregon last week. Apparently, Bernina has announced significant price hikes on all Bernina and bernette machines effective August 1st. They’re joining Janome, Brother and Baby Lock in hiking prices due to tariffs. My local Janome/Brother dealer raised prices 10-25% across the board a couple of months ago. Stopped in today after guild meeting (7/25) and was told the price on the Janome 9480 with ASR (very competitive), but was also informed prices would be going up again on 8/1. I questioned this as I know there’s inventory in the back that’s been there since last fall. The clerk responded it was a “business decision” that applied to all inventory, regardless of when received.

If you’re seriously in the market for a new TOL machine from a dealer, you may want to consider finalizing your purchase in the next week. The good news? Prices on more modest machines available through mass merchandisers such as Wal-Mart appear to be holding steady for now.

What’s a fair price to pay for a sewing machine? Only you can decide. Check eBay, Check FB Marketplace. Check patternreview.com. My personal rule of thumb? The sweet spot for a new machine is about 65% of the suggested retail price (less if you can get it). For a machine that’s used – no more than 50% of the MSRP for a current model. Classroom machines from consumer shows should have every option available and carry the full manufacturer’s warranty that a new machine would have.

Am I ready to move on the purchase of a Janome 9480? Absolutely, but not at $1000 more than what the same damn machine (still sitting in the backroom at my local dealer) was selling for last fall.

No thanks, I’ll pass. I can wait. Maybe I’ll get to the point where I don’t need a stitch regulator for FMQ on a domestic machine.

Achieving consistent seam allowances and accurate topstitching

May 5, 2025

Accurate seam allowances play a vital role in the successful outcome of any project. A 1/4″ seam allowance is standard in quilting and most smaller sewn projects like zipper pouches and placemats. Topstitching is one of those little sewing extras that takes an item from homemade to handmade. If you make bags, zipper pouches, journal covers, placemats, fabric boxes, bookmarks, lanyards, etc., you’ll find find 1/8″ topstitching in your project.

What’s the best way to achieve consistent seam allowances and accurate topstitching?
Experiment with the different feet that came with your machine. Practice, practice, practice.

Perhaps your all-purpose presser foot looks like the one in this picture. Here, I’m showing a 1/4″ seam, scant 1/4″ seam and an 1/8″ topstitch. All were made using the foot that came with the machine. Use the edge of the presser foot as the guide for 1/4″ seams and adjust the needle position (change the stitch width) accordingly. Use a similar approach for 1/8″ topstitching, except use the inside right toe as your seam guide (long metal lip on the right side) and adjust the needle position.

My personal favorite, and most consistent means of 1/8″ topstitching, requires a specialty foot. Janome refers to this one as the SE foot, but it’s very similar to a common blindhem foot. Here’s a an earlier post where I discuss using the Janome G blind hem foot. The Elnita EC30 pictured here has a 5mm wide stitch width, and I find the SE foot easier to use than the adjustable blind hem foot demonstrated in that post.

For 1/4″ seams, I do best with a guide on the right side of my presser foot (similar to topstitching). The Janome 02 presser foot delivers consistent results.

These sticky notes will be pasted inside the front cover of my sewing machine manual. Having this info at my fingertips helps me make the most of my limited sewing time.

What about vintage straight stitch machines and modern mechanical machines where you can’t adjust the needle position on a straight stitch?

  • Use the original presser foot and painter’s tape on the machine bed to mark seam allowances.
  • Buy a 1/4″ presser foot for your machine. Can’t find one? The Little Foot works well.
  • Singer makes a Sew Easy foot with an adjustable guide. Using the inside toe as a guide with a center needle position yields a nice, consistent 1/8″ topstitch.

Experiment with the different feet and attachments out there to discover what works best for you. Another hack for vintage machines is use an old credit card along with the painter’s tape to mark seam allowances. This way you get a lip to run the edge of the fabric against and you can still use pins/clips up to a point. Beats having to pin everything to the left.