Tag: handmade

Seam guides for vintage straight-stitch sewing machines

June 29, 2026

Lately, I’ve been working on my Silver Lake quilt, which is a fund raiser for the Virginia Quilt Museum. Pat Sloan sponsored a QAL earlier in the year, but I’m just now able to get to it. So far, I’ve pieced all the blocks on my Elna 450 using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance, as the test block using the full 1/4″ seam allowance came up a wee bit short.

Modern, computerized sewing machines have us spoiled. It’s so easy to adjust your needle position with 1-2 clicks to set it for a perfect scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Not so easy with a vintage, straight stitch sewing machine! You can’t move the needle, so you must compensate by moving the seam guide or by using a specialty scant 1/4″ foot.

With the way my Singer 301A was built, the specialty slant shank scant 1/4″ foot yields a full 1/4″ seam allowance. It’s not a fluke. I purchased the same exact foot from two different vendors and experienced the same result each time. More than one technician has told me that it’s just the way my machine was made. If I need a scant 1/4″ seam, I was advised to use the original presser foot and a seam guide.

So, what solution did I come up with?

I use a Seam Square from The Featherweight Shop as the measuring device to set any seam guide.

(1) If I am chain piecing or can pin parallel to the fabric edge, I’ll use the Seam Guide from The Featherweight Shop or a cute magnetic one I picked up at a local quilt shop.

(2) If I need to pin perpendicular to the fabric edge to match at specific points, I like to use the little stick-on guides from Guidelines 4 Quilting along with the Magic flathead pins from Taylor Seville. The guide is just high enough to act as the fabric bumper, while still allowing the pins to pass over. (A thin stack of sticky notes will also work).

I’ve also tried various 3-D printed slant shanks with snap on feet. If someone can design one with a slightly thinner shank, I’ll be happy to test it out for you.

It’s travel season for quilters!

June 22, 2026

A common question appearing in many of the different quilting groups I follow is, “What sort of sewing machine should I take on my trip/to my retreat?” The litany of responses that follows usually includes mentions of Featherweights, machines from big box stores, and smaller computerized machines found at various sewing machine dealers. My thinking? Take the machine that does everything you need it to do at the retreat and preferably one you can transport (lift, unpack, set-up) unassisted.

Martha Pullen, the heirloom sewing guru, often said that all you really need is a sewing machine with a straight stitch and a fully adjustable zigzag stitch to make beautiful things. (I’d also add an automatic needle threader and top loading bobbin to those criteria!) Mechanical or computerized? It’s your choice.

Here’s the thing: you do not need a super fancy sewing machine at classes and retreats. A Featherweight is a great little machine for piecing blocks. I love my Featherweight, but from a practical standpoint, you’ll be happier with one that does a few other stitches in addition to a straight stitch. Circled in red are the stitches I’ve used in classes and at sew days over the past two months.

Elna 450 showing stitches actually used during recent classes and sew days.

A $200 budget and a trip to your local big box store can net you a decent travel machine. I found three viable options in-stock at my local Wal-Mart store: Janome Signature Charm, Singer M3220 and Janome C30 in blue. To me, the Singer offers the better value of the two mechanical options. My money is on the computerized C30, though. Same stitches as the Elna 450 shown above (and Elnita EC30 and Janome TM30), but this model does not have a speed control slider.

Need more options? Scout your local thrift shops and FB Marketplace for a vintage machine.

Kid’s project: BBQ Aprons for Father’s Day

June 19, 2026

In CraftLAB, we made aprons using the free pattern and video instructions from Made Everyday. (Thank you for a well-fitting, easy to follow project.)

Note that it will probably take you longer than 30 minutes to make the apron on your first try. Allow a couple of hours if you are sewing with kids or are a beginning sewist.

The fabric shown is a heavier-weight denim with minimal stretch I found at Hobby Lobby. The girls chose to add a contrasting cotton fabric for the pocket lining. Thread used exactly matches the denim to help hide topstitching variations.

Three suggestions:

(1) Two ironing stations will make the process flow much more smoothly when sewing with friends.

(2) Use a tube turner to make the ties and neck band. Cut the fabrics as indicated on the pattern, but fold fabric in half RST lengthwise and stitch along one side and across the bottom of one end of the tube. Clip the corners before turning. Love how this video explains things.

(3) If sewing with kids, consider lining the apron. This will eliminate all of the folding and pressing required to finish the raw edges. Shorten the main pattern piece by 2″ before cutting out. Omit the facing piece. Add front pocket as directed. Create ties and neck band as desired. Attach ties and neck band in positions as indicated in video instructions. Place front and lining RST and sew around using a 3/8″ to 1/2″ (or edge of presser foot) seam allowance. Leave a 6″ opening along the bottom to facilitate turning the project right side out. Press and topstitch around the entire apron using 1/4″ seam allowance (or whatever you prefer).

I’ll be making one for me with some personalized touches: contrast pocket lining and matching flower applique on the bib. I’ll also shorten the neck strap by 2 inches because I want a little more coverage.