Like a particular block, but need to make it in a different size?

Already have a pattern similar to one being used in a QAL, but don’t want to buy yet another pattern?

Cast aside your quilty math fears and learn how to resize quilt blocks.

Basic Formula: (desired finished size of block divided by original finished size of block) X 100

This will give you the percentage to multiply the original finished block size by to increase/decrease it to the size you want to make. Want to double the block size? Multiply by 200%. Want to make it half-size? Multiply by 50%. It really is that simple. Here’s a link to a handy chart I found with all of the calculations done for you.

How to adjust cut size measurements: Ignore the seam allowance (1/2″), multiply the original cut measurement by the correct percentage, and then add back the seam allowance to arrive at the new size to cut.

For example, if the 6″ finished block original pattern calls for rectangles to be cut at 2-1/2″ x 4-1/2″:

For 12″ finished block: 2-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ rectangles would now be cut as 4-1/2″ x 8-1/2″ rectangles (enlarge 200%)

For a 3″ finished block: 2-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ rectangle would now be cut as 1-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ rectangles (reduce 50%).

This ratio also works the same if you are using uneven blocks – say 8″x10″ rectangles that you want to change to 4″x5″ rectangles. The pattern written for the 8″x 10″ block can easily be converted to half-size by multiplying the original sizes by 50%.

If you are doing foundation paper piecing or applique shapes and want to resize the original pattern templates, make a copy and change the output size percentage to enlarge/shrink the pattern as needed.

This is my favorite book for most quilty math. If I find a different formula/method I like to use, I merely write it on a sticky note and tape it in the book.

This post is for my reference.

Moda site link: Program details and filler blocks

Fat Quarter Shop links : Large letters. Small letters

Large letters finish @ 8″ x 10″ and small letters finish @ 4″ x 5″ (before adding additional sashing).

Do you have a Singer 301, Featherweight 221/222 or other vintage machine with a fold-up extension bed? Do the clear silicone bumpers you apply to the faceplate thumbscrew keep falling off? There are other options: make a padded sleeve that fits over the extension bed or make a faceplate cozy that protects your machine bed from the presser foot screw, faceplate screw and any other decorative accessories that might be affixed to your metal faceplate (needle minder or thread cutter perhaps?). I learned about faceplate cozies at a retreat where a fellow sewist had one on her Featherweight.

Numerous retailers offer patterns on how to make these things, but if you’ve ever made a quilted bookmark, you can make a faceplate cozy. It’s like a GIANT bookmark with a ribbon marker. First, you’ll have to figure out what size to cut your fabric strips and batting. You’ll need two measurements: (1) width of your faceplate and (2) distance from the top of the faceplate to a point 2″ to the right of your presser foot (run a flexible measuring tape down the side of the faceplate, under the presser foot and stop 2″ to the right of the presser foot). Add your desired seam allowance to these measurements and you’ll have the cut measurements for your strips and batting. Your loop will be made from 1/4″ wide ribbon, trim or rickrack (about 3″-4″ long). In the picture below, I used 1/2″ wide (medium) rick rack from my stash. For me, it’s too wide, but use what suits you best.